Ahjumawi Lava Springs

Saturday, 3 September-Monday, 5 September, 2016

The Denouement, and Appreciation


In the morning, Eric took a picture of our friends paddling away while we were still waiting for our water to boil.


Eric eventually sped up the boiling process by sheltering the lone burner from the wind. Too bad we didn't bring our camp stove with its own wind shields. We enjoyed our turkey bacon, but had much less of the sense of peace than on the previous days. The site was so isolated that there probably was no reason to rush to get out by the noon check-out time. However, we still had sights to see and did need to get back to the Bay Area in time for me to get enough sleep to get up for work the next morning, which would involve paddling back across the lake, loading up Sydney, and driving at least five hours. The palpable difference in feeling was unsettling and disappointing.

Eric photographed the White Pelicans splashing around in the lake.


He also photographed a row of neatly-arranged White Pelicans.


We cleaned up our dishes as best we could, and packed up our gear. We took a little time to fix the problems with the tent so that it could be better set up the next time I was able to convince Eric to go camping. We laboriously carried everything back to the Weeble, loaded it up, and strapped it in. Then, at 13:30, we set off on the approximately 1,600-m (1-mi) hike out to the park's remaining volcanic feature, the conic depression.

Algae along the path. We sometimes had to strain our cooking water through a washcloth in addition to boiling it. Chuck had told us that some parts of the lake were actually clear springwater.


The conic depression was not worth the time it took to hike out to it. We would have been better served by trying to paddle out to some of the actual springs Chuck had described.


At least we saw some cool things along the trail. Eric got a great picture of a dragonfly.


All of the lava we saw off the trail was 'a'a, but we occasionally saw something like this, in the road, that looked like pahoehoe. Eric thought it was really 'a'a that had been worn down by the wheels of the rangers' vehicles.


I made sandwiches for lunch on the dock, and we saw these frogs in the algae.


Eric took my picture with the loaded Weeble before we headed off.


We knew where we were headed this time, and paddled more directly, so we arrived back at Sydney in only half an hour. But it took an hour to unload everything from the Weeble and reload it into and onto Sydney, so we did not have time to go searching for some geocaches in a nearby crater. We will have to come back and do that some other time.

We stopped at a rest stop just for the purpose of washing our hands with soap and running water. It was spectacular.

Returning home was an odd kind of shock. So different from the way we had lived the last few days, so much less exotic, and yet even our garage seemed so much more comfortable. Drinkable water coming out of taps! So much water we could keep a whole hot tub full of it in the back yard! And enough electricity to keep that water hot! A machine in the kitchen that could keep our food fresh and cold for weeks! Days after our return, I was still finding these everyday things remarkable.

Eric, on the other hand, was so appalled by the dirty, mosquito-bitten condition of his feet that he photographed them.


Eric's map of our fraught and fascinating journey through this park, by land and by water.


So, that was our adventure, more adventurous than most of our adventures. In some ways it was awful, and in other ways it was amazing. Such solitude is both exciting and frightening. There was so much aggravation, and such joy and tranquility. Experiences like this are rare in the modern world, and should be cherished.


Last updated: 15 September, 2016 by Eric and Beth Zuckerman