Anniversary 22--Mendocino Coast

Glass Beach

Now, we come to the blot on an otherwise unblemished weekend--Glass Beach, still part of MacKerricher State Park. As the linked Wikipedia article tells you, residents of Ft. Bragg dumped glass and other garbage all over this beach in the early part of the 20th century. Eventually, the pounding of the waves reduced the trash to a pile of smooth, rounded, shining glass. Here is a link, from less than two years ago, showing how the beach apparently used to look.

This is what it looks like today.



"Honey," I said, "I don't see any glass."

What happened to the glass? People picked it up and took it away. Despite prominent "No Glass Collecting" signs all over, virtually everyone on the beach but us was looking down at the sand, picking things up, and putting them into their pockets.

Eventually, I found a couple of pieces of glass. A few pieces like this, all white or clear and thus difficult to see, are all that's left.


A beautiful, unique place has been utterly destroyed. And what is the reaction of most people who come across this destroyed place? "Gee, I'd better grab what little is left of it while I still can." We left so hastily and in such utter disgust that we didn't even try to find the geocache.

Point Cabrillo Lighthouse

The 1909 Point Cabrillo Lighthouse is a bit of a ways down CA 1 from MacKerricher State Park, almost to the City of Mendocino itself. That Lighthouse Friends page tells us that the site became a California State Park in 2002. But the park is supported by a non-profit called the Point Cabrillo Lightkeepers Association, so they still didn't take my California State Parks Foundation passes. They asked instead for a $5/person contribution.

The lighthouse.


Bit by bit, the once tumbledown area is being restored. The lighthouse itself and one assistant keeper's dwelling are open as a gift shop and museum, respectively. The head keeper's dwelling is open as a vacation rental. There are other assistant keeper's dwellings on the historic property that are yet to be restored and reopened.

Eric's view of the lighthouse.


Eric got a picture of a rare fresnel lens still in operation.


This is the assistant keeper's dwelling that is open as a museum.


A historic stove in the museum.


An antiquated Smith & Corona. Can you imagine trying to work on that thing? Photo by Eric.


Interestingly, there was a kelp forest aquarium. Note the dedication to a guy who died at only 27 years old.


Eric took a picture of some of the sea life in the aquarium. This thing is interesting, but I don't know what it is, either.


Russian Gulch State Park

As we were driving back out to the highway after having found a couple of geocaches at Point Cabrillo, we saw a sign that said, "Russian Gulch State Park." Well, there must be something worthwhile there for the state to have made it a park. I have this cool app from the California State Parks Foundation that tells you about each state park. If you're looking for a fairly popular park, like, say, Angel Island, the app shows you all sorts of information, including maps and geocaching information. But if you're looking for a relatively obscure and out-of-the-way park like Russian Gulch, it still contains an (available offline) description of the park and what there is to see there. The descriptions are flowery:

"On the Mendocino coast, the air smells of salt and the crashing waves create a continuous resonance. The tall bluffs at this spot north of San Francisco resemble the rugged shores of the east coast, but with an unmistakable California flair."

The app said that the park's primary feature was a large sinkhole, and also described a photogenic bridge. Someone at the Howard Creek Ranch had been telling us about the sinkhole, so we decided stop and see.

We were not greeted by an enthusiastic ranger refusing to take our park passes. We were greeted by an indifferent ranger who did take a park pass. He didn't even give us a map. You'd think these people would be happy to see Parks Foundation supporters, wouldn't you? I mean, who else is trying to help them keep their jobs?

That's some sinkhole, huh?


There's a cave down in there.


Eric took a picture of the dramatic shoreline.


Of course we had to stop to see the photogenic bridge.


Eric took a picture of an arched rock.


Without an internet signal, we couldn't find any geocaches. My app said there was a waterfall, but when we finally got the attention of the indifferent ranger, he told us it was a 5-km hike in each direction. We didn't have time for that, so we went on to Point Arena.

Point Arena Lighthouse

As it was about 17:20 when we arrived, we knew that we would not able to see the inside of the Point Arena Lighthouse.

We had thought, though, that we would be able to get a closer view of the outside.


Unlike Point Cabrillo, which is a state park, Point Arena is operated by a private lighthouse-preserving foundation, and they charge $7 to see it. They want that $7 as much as that kid wants his $2 in Better Off Dead. You can't get anywhere near the lighthouse without paying. So, this is one lighthouse you have to get to early.

The Point Arena Lighthouse with a zoom lens.


In Eric's even closer picture, you can see that the actual light is missing from the tower.


The lens hasn't been vandalized; apparently, if you get there early and pay your $7, you can see the fresnel lens in the fog signal building. But the lighthouse looks kind of, well, empty without it. We were disappointed.

We did hike around on the bluff for a bit, finding a geocache, and saw these rocks.


It was a lovely spot, even without the lighthouse.


Eventually, and not as pathetically late as usual, we got back on the road. We found ourselves behind this unusual vehicle.


Eric was in the mood for the Black Bear Diner, so we stopped at one in Rohnert Park. It seems weird to me to eat at the Black Bear Diner when not up near Mt. Shasta, but they even have one in Emeryville now. We had been paying careful attention to the time when Lulu said we would get home, so we didn't get home too terribly late.

All in all, it was a very nice little romantic getaway. It's not the most glamorous part of the state, but it's still beautiful, and there's clearly more 'splorin' to do up there. We could go back and hike to the waterfall at Russian Gulch, and get close enough to see the Point Arena Lighthouse. Oh, and ride the Skunk Train! Yeah!


Last updated: 08/07/2013 by Eric and Beth Zuckerman