Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon

10 August, 2014



Iceland is just packed with beautiful places. But one of the more beautiful ones, at least that we saw, is the Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon, about 45 minutes east of Skaftafell. We were so glad we got a place at the Hotel Skaftafell (from a waiting list), and didn't have to drive yet another 45 minutes from Geirland, only to have to drive all that way back later!

We're all nervous about the world's retreating glaciers, but sometimes something good happens when a glacier retreats. The retreat of the Breiþamerkurjökull glacier since about 1930 has created the beautiful Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon in its wake. (Source: Classic Geology in Europe 3: Iceland)

We left early enough that we had time to photograph some of Vatnajökull's other glaciers along the way.


Eric's glacier photo.


Of course, there were waterfalls just pouring out of the porous lava rock.


The road gave us good views of the sandur (formerly an oceanic plain) and the ocean beyond.


Another glacier, probably Fjallsjökull.


Fascinating rock formations along the edge of the road.


Eric took a picture of the bridge where the glacial river runs into the ocean.


The item on the far right of the sign, "Vindhviþur," apparently indicates wind speed. This is a big issue in Iceland. Honestly, it had been difficult to open the car doors at the various stops we made. The lagoon was fortunately sheltered from the wind.

We hiked up onto a hill for good vantage points of the lagoon. Photo by Eric.


Eric also photographed some blue ice.


Ice formations.


Look at the clarity of the ice.



There were seals in the water!


There are two ways to tour Jökulsárlón, in a large amphibious vehicle or a small Zodiac raft. For reasons that should be obvious, we had chosen the small Zodiac raft.

Eric took a picture of a guide pulling a Zodiac raft up to the shore.


He also took a picture of tourists on another Zodiac raft. Our tour company took out two boats, so neither was terribly crowded. There were about seven people on our raft.


We were outfitted with extra-warm, waterproof exposure suits intended to keep us afloat if we somehow accidentally exited the raft. They had an amazing number of pockets. It was hot wearing them on the walk up to the entry point, but I was quite grateful for mine when we were actually out on the lagoon driving fast.

Eric took a picture of me taking a picture.


Our guide took us to see some beautiful blue ice.


Ice in an accordion shape.


A glacier coming down into the lagoon.


Lagoon and glaciers beyond.


A glacial coming down toward the lagoon.


Our guide told us that all 8100 square kilometers of the Vatnajökull ice cap are expected to disappear within the next 150 years. Icelanders seem fairly unhappy about the disappearance of their glaciers. I think it would be impolite to point out that a large eruption of one of their volcanoes would significantly improve the climate change problem.

We stopped by fascinating ice formations.


A hole in the melting ice.


A formation of ice. Our guide reminded us that only 10% of each iceberg is protruding from the water.


Arching ice.



Black, white and blue ice.


Detail on black ice, colored by volcanic ash.


A pointed formation.


The blue is the prettiest ice.


Eric took a picture of this beautiful iceberg.


He got a close-up of the plate shapes.


Looking back out over the lagoon toward the ocean.


We approached the glacier tongue.


This was as close as we could safely get, even with a Zodiac. We had had hopes of seeing some calving, but we were not so lucky.


Our guide took our picture together at the extreme end of the lagoon.


We saw even more beautiful formations on the way back.


A tower of ice.




Blue.


Looking into the blue depths.


Curved formations.


Eric got a great picture looking into this hole.




Almost looks like an intentional sculpture.





Looking through another hole.


Eric took my picture as we came back to land.


The Zodiac trip was truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and if you get the chance, you should do it before the glacier is gone!

Eric tells me that parts of Die Another Day were filmed at Jökulsárlón.

Someone had placed a very cleverly-hidden commemorative geocahe.


The cache site gave us a good vantage point for some very pretty pictures of the lagoon.






See the seal in the bottom of the picture.


We have had the fortune of having visited many beautiful and exciting places, but Jökulsárlón may be one of the most beautiful. I feel like this is some of the best photography we've ever done. I'm so glad we had the opportunity to see Jökulsárlón, and I hope you've enjoyed your virtual visit.

After Jökulsárlón, we needed to drive to our next hotel in Borgarnes, which Google Maps thought was about seven hours away. Our guide Steve from the previous day had warned us of bad weather predictions, so we thought the trip might take extra time, and it was already after 13:00. We did so well for the first quarter of the journey, however, that we have a few stray pictures from the drive, including more puffins!

A waterfall of unknown provenance, near Skaftafell.


We decided to stop and see the other side of Dyrhólaey, the actual southernmost point in Iceland.


Eric took my picture in front of a lighthouse. There was, of course, a geocache there.


I was cold and wanted to go back to the car, but Eric got some great shots of the amazing scenery.


Also Eric's.


He also found more puffins!


Unfortunately, by the time he came back to the car to get me, the puffins had flown away.


I did get an interesting shot of a mountain in the distance.


Random steam vents just off the Ring Road. Iceland is amazing.


Reykjavík from across the water. You can pick out that fancy church.


Beautiful lighthouse at Breið in Arkanes. Arkanes is a major fish processing center, and you could tell from the smell.


Eric's view of the lighthouse with a sundial.


There were actually two lighthouses there; Eric took a nice picture of the other one.


Now on the west side of the island, we could see a great sunset over the water.


We hadn't left enough time for a good sit-down dinner. We went to a gas station and at a fast-food chain there called Grill 66, with a logo designed to look like a Route 66 sign. We had another Icelandic fish "stew" and fish & chips. It was reasonably good, but not as fast as an American fast-food place.

We spent the night at the Icelandair Hotel Hamar in Borgarnes, a suburb north of Reykjavík.

The absolute hideosity of the exterior of the hotel can only be demonstrated photographically. Photo by Eric.


Inside, however, it was much nicer. It was obviously very new, in a style that I think can best be described as "Ikea."


Still, it was the nicest room we had stayed in yet, quite comfortable. The breakfast, however, was not quite as good as the breakfasts we had been having in the country hotels.

We were invited to enjoy the hotel's mineral spas, and we had them all to ourselves under the full moon.


It was an excellent, relaxing ending to an entirely amazing day, one we'll probably not see the likes of again any time soon.

On to Snæfellsjökull National Park.


Last updated: 11/08/2014 by Eric and Beth Zuckerman