The Scenic Glenn Highway

July 22 and 24, 2011


The Matanuska Glacier.


We left San Francisco at 20:15 on Thursday, July 21, transferred in Portland, and arrived in Anchorage at 1:30 on Friday, July 22, my mother's birthday. The arrival time was not my idea. I had booked a direct flight to Anchorage that would have landed at 23:30, but it was canceled and we were rebooked with this less desirable itinerary a couple of months before the trip. Despite our late arrival, there was still enough light to see Anchorage, surrounded on either side by the Knik and Turnagain Arms, from the air.

We got in on time, and a shuttle picked us up and brought us to the Ramada, where we spent the rest of the night and had a lovely waffle and wi-fi breakfast in the morning. Another shuttle brought us to Thrifty, where we picked up a 2010 Sonata with 54,000 km (33,600 mi) on the odometer. Our itinerary came with a mid-size car and, while we probably could have saved some money by getting a smaller one, our poor packing skills made the larger car desirable.

Our car for eleven days.


The letters on our license plate make the acronym for "Geocachers of the Bay Area." Photo by Eric.


The plan for the day was to drive the scenic Glenn Highway from Anchorage to Glennallen and then down the Richardson and Edgerton Highways to Chitina. The highway proceeds through the lovely Chugach State Park and then runs along the Matanuska River, through the valley carved by the retreating Matanuska Glacier, with the Chugach Mountains to the south and the Talkeetna Mountains to the north. Eventually, it passes the Matanuska Glacier and the Eureka Summit, and continues to Glennallen on the Copper River at the west edge of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve. It's not quite Yosemite Valley, but it's still pretty stunning. We could not have asked for better weather than we got.

Because of our need to make up sleep time from a night spent partially in an airplane, and to stock up on car snacks for the road and deli sandwiches for lunch at a Safewy, we did not leave Anchorage until 14:00. I got really hungry while shopping and ate half a sandwich in the car on the way out of Anchorage. The delay (for which I place blame squarely on the airline) forced us to skip our first planned stop, the Rodak Nature Trail in Chugach State Park. We did get to see some of the park, though, because we hiked a 1.6 km (1 mi) trail to Thunderbird Falls on the Elkutna River.

We saw many fungi on the hike to the falls.


We first went down to the very bottom of the falls. You couldn't see much of them from this point.


The we went up to the overlook so we could see more of the falls.


It was at this point when Eric made the unfortunate discovery that the half sandwich I had eaten in the car had been his. He did not like my sandwich as much as the one he had ordered, because it had artichokes on it. My sandwich was also smaller. It was a mistake, but he was not happy with me.

After the falls, we made a brief stop at Reflections Lake at the Palmer Hay Flats.


This is a view of one of the Chugach Mountains from near Reflections Lake. Roadside Geology of Alaska tells us that the last time the glacier came through, it didn't come all the way up to the top of the mountains. You can see in this picture exactly how high up the glacier came.


Then we started driving, stopping approximately every five minutes to take pictures of the spectacular scenery. We met some Alaskans who told us that the road is often fogged in, and that we had excellent weather for scenic touring.


You might have to be a glacier lover to see the beauty in the muddy Matanuska River. It comes down from a glacial moraine and is brown from the source.


The further we went, the better the scenery got. This is King Mountain. We finally found our first Alaskan cache in this vicinity.


Here, you can clearly see the footprint left by the glacier on the mountain. Photo by Eric.


Some tourists from Quebec took our picture in front of the mountains. I was astonished at how many license plates we saw from very faraway places: New York, New Hampshire and Quebec. I guess we're not the only ones who like road tripping.


More river and mountains.


At last, we came to the glacier that carved this amazing valley.


Eric took a picture of me in front of the glacier.


A fascinating ridge near the glacier.


A glacial cirque right next to the glacier.


The plan had been to arrive in Chitina by 21:30, have dinner and go to bed by 23:00. It eventually became apparent that we were enjoying the scenery too much to make it to Chitina by 21:30, and that we needed to stop somewhere sooner. Shortly after 21:00, we stopped at the Sheep Mountain Lodge, where the kitchen was closed but where we could still get soup and salad. We looked at our maps and discovered that we were only about halfway to Chitina. Uh-oh. Good thing we didn't have to wait for our dinner to be cooked.

We made it to the Chitina House around midnight. Much too late to get enough sleep.


The host had left notes up to direct us, and we were greeted by another guest, who was very friendly and helpful in getting us quickly settled in.

The place had a lovely little pond, which we wouldn't see until morning.


The return trip along the Glenn Highway was nowhere near as exciting as the trip out. Not only had we seen it all before, but the weather was cold and cloudy. We belatedly found the Visitor Center for the park.

The Visitor Center had an example of a fishwheel. These rotating devices are used on the Copper River to catch salmon. Carla, our host at the Chitina House, told us that she used a fishwheel to catch fresh salmon.


The relief map at the park showed the glacier we hiked on, the Root Glacier.


Eric took a picture of an exhibit of a bear claw, with his own fingers for scale.


The highway had a pretty amazing roadcut.


Clouds hiding the Chugach Mountains.


The Matanuska Glacier in more lackluster light. Photo by Eric. Instead of picnicking on a glacier like the day before, we picnicked within sight of a glacier.


I had hoped to have time for a tour of the Musk Ox Farm, but we had a lot of road to cover and so had to skip it. At Palmer, we headed up the Parks Highway toward Denali. The weather had now decayed to the point where it was raining, so there was no chance of glimpsing the mountain today. Desiring a more authentic experience than another Subway, we had dinner at a place called the H&H Lakeview Restaurant. A smell of cigarettes lingered in the air, the pool table had a classy sign saying, "No asses, glasses or butts on the table," and the food choices were very, well, American. Mostly burgers and fries. But they did have a garden burger, the lake view was beautiful, and the waitress was very nice. We had a great conversation with some Japanese tourists who were visiting the woman (from Portland, OR) who hosted one of them as an exchange student 35 years ago. But Subway definitely would have been faster. We needed to meet our Denali tour at 6:10 the next day, so we needed to get to bed very early.

Our amazing visit to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.


Last updated: 07/24/2011 by Eric and Beth Zuckerman